INSTALLATION PROCEDURE FOR THE THEATER OF MAGIC TIGER SAW (DIRECT DRIVE- 1.3 GAME ROM).
(GAMES EQUIPPED WITH 1.0-1.3 FACTORY GAME ROMS). CUSTOMER SUPPLIES THE FOLLOWING 3 SPECIAL THEATER OF MAGIC GAME PARTS SHOWN IN THIS CONVERSION- (PLASTIC SAW, METAL BRACKET, TIGER PLASTIC). INSTALLATION IS DIVIDED INTO 2 PARTS:
PART #1 (PAGES 1-3) COVER REWORKING THE SAW BRACKET, INSTALLING THE MOTOR AND DRIVE ADAPTER THEN RE-FITTING THE SAW BRACKET BACK INTO THE GAME.
PART #2 (PAGES 4-6) COVER INSTALLING THE DRIVER BOARD, CONNECTING SWITCH ASSEMBLY AND FINAL FITTING OF THE WIRE HARNESS AND CONNECTORS TO POWER DRIVER BOARD.
START WITH: REMOVE THE SAW BRACKET AND DISASSEMBLING THE PARTS. TAKE THE SAW ASSEMBLY OUT OF THE GAME AND PERFORM THE FOLLOWING STEPS:
1) REMOVE THE 2 SCREWS HOLDING THE TIGER SAW PLASTIC TO THE FRAME.
2) REMOVE THE SCREW THAT FASTENS THE PLASTIC SAW BLADE TO THE FRAME.
3) USING CARE, DRILL OUT THE CENTER HOLE OF THE SAW BLADE TO ¼”.
4) COPY THE TEMPLATE BELOW AND CUT IT OUT ALONG THE OUTSIDE LINE.
After making a copy, DRILL OUT THE CENTER BOSS OF THE BRACKET TO ¼" DIAMETER. Try fitting the motor hub into the ¼" hole. Ream out the ¼" hole to provide a good fit over the motor hub. Lay template on bracket with outlines matching. Center-punch the crosshairs on either side of the ¼" hole. Drill these out to 1/8". Clean up all burrs and trial fit the motor onto the bracket. Motor has to lay flat with hub in center hole and both screw holes lined up. Use the (2) 4/40 machine screws to secure the motor to the bracket.
THERE ARE 2 SAW BLADES THAT CAN BE USED WITH THE 1.3 KIT-
THE ORIGINAL PLASTIC SAW BLADE AND THE (OPTIONAL) METAL SAW BLADE.
INSTALLING THE PLASTIC OR METAL SAW BLADE
With motor bolted to bracket- slide the Allen bolt adapter onto the motor shaft (without blade). Push it on till it contacts the hub. Then back it out enough for the adapter to free-spin. With Allen wrench (provided), turn both set screws until they JUST make contact with the motor shaft. Do a final (firm) tightening on both set screws. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN SET SCREWS.
A RUBBER GROMMET HUB SPACER is supplied with each Metal blade. With saw blade installed up against the Allen head – install another washer and 1’4-20 nut and tightened. Hand-spin the assembly and check for alignment. The smoother it rotates by hand-the less chance for vibration under power. If there is a pronounced wobble then remove blade and realign the Allen bolt adapter by adjusting the tension of both socket head screws. When adjusted correctly the Allen Bolt adapter should spin straight and smooth.
CAUTION: INSTALLING THE METAL SAW BLADE
Observe the warnings printed on the METAL saw blade and use caution handling the very sharp edges of the blade. When the final tightening is done, the blade must be centered on the shaft for a balanced match up.
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Before installing the reworked saw assembly, there are two clearance points to address. First, the left mounting hole for the bracket (in the backboard) must be rotated (upwards) as shown in the photo below.
This is to allow the bracket to be lifted and rotated slightly allowing the motor to clear the plastic ramp behind the saw assembly. One last point refers to the Tiger Plastic. There is a 1" long nylon spacer and a 1- 1/2" long # 8 Pan Head screw in the hardware package. The use of these two items will enable the Tiger Plastic to clear the saw blade. Depending on what type of saw blade is being used, the 1" spacer can be cut down to allow for correct clearance between rotating saw hub and back of Tiger Saw Plastic.
PART 2:ELECTRONICS
CAUTION: TO PREVENT DAMAGE TO THE DRIVER/ TIMER PCB- MAKE SURE THE RED WIRE IS CONNECTED TO 5 VDC (TP2) ON THE POWER DRIVER BOARD, NOT TO ANY OTHER TEST POINT.
This mockup of rear panel shows mounting of Driver/Timer PCB.
Take out the wiring harness for a trial fitting. Install the 6 Pin Connector onto the Driver/Timer PCB (observing the key at pin 3). Let the longest wires of the harness (red/black Zip) hang down. Locate the 8” long section of 2 wires. These 2 wires go to the motor. Feed the 2 pin connector (from the motor) thru the hole in the panel. Push the two parts of the 2 pin connector together. Locate the 28” long section of 2 wires (1 Brown-1 Black) with the micro switch attached. This section will be threaded thru the games wire harness ending at the micro switch located at the captive ball lane. With the playfield standing, the captive ball lane switch is located 6’’ up and 2” in from the lower left corner of the standing playfield.
The drill template shown will help in locating the 2 mounting screws for the “motor micro”.
Make a copy of the template and cut it down to the outside lines. Then cut out the 3/8” hole and place the hole over the lock nut shown in the photo. Keep the “side rail” of the template parallel to the metal frame and mark the playfield for the two (1/2” #6 Hex head) mounting screws.
As shown in above photo the “motor micro” switch will be mounted below and to the left of the original captive ball switch. The wire actuator from the “motor micro” lies on top of the Captive ball switch’s actuator and has to be adjusted so that the bottom wire actuator will click the Captive ball micro switch ‘on’ just before the top “motor micro” wire actuator clicks the switch ‘on’. To avoid a stuck ball, the wire actuator on the captive ball switch must travel freely thru the slot in the playfield’ (free enough for the ball to pass over in either direction). Try several slow rolls- (using the captive ball, with the playfield down) to check for hang-ups. The last part of the wiring harness is the 60” long section with 2 Zip wires (1 Red, 1 Black). The 60” long section is snaked thru games wire harness ending up in the back box at the Power Driver Board. These are simple slip on terminals that slide over 2 test points on the Power driver Board. The Red terminal slides over TP2 (5V) and the Black wire slides over TP5 (Ground). There are 3 ways to test the final assembly.
1) Pressing the test button on the Driver/Timer PCB.
2) Hitting the Captive Ball- causing it to roll over switch.
3) Activating the “motor micro” switch under the playfield.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE FOR THE THEATER OF MAGIC TIGER SAW.
1.4 HOME ROM VERSION
CUSTOMER WILL NEED FOLLOWING ITEMS TO CONVERT THEATER OF MAGIC TO A 1.4 VERSION:
1.4 HOME VERSION GAME ROM-SUPPLIER: RAY AT ACTIONPINBALL.COM
U22 PIC CHIP –SUPPLIER: COREY STUP AT SHIFTEDBITS.COM
MOTOR EMI BOARD-SUPPLIER: MARCOSPEC.COM
THERE ARE OTHER SOURCES BUT THESE SOURCES WERE CONTACTED FIRST.
CUSTOMER WILL SUPPLY FOLLOWING 3 SPECIAL THEATER OF MAGIC GAME PARTS SHOWN IN THIS CONVERSION- (PLASTIC SAW, METAL BRACKET, And TIGER PLASTIC). INSTALLATION IS DIVIDED INTO 2 PARTS:
PART #1 (PAGES 1-2) COVER REWORKING THE SAW BRACKET, INSTALLING THE MOTOR AND DRIVE MECHANISMS AND RE-FITTING THE SAW BRACKET BACK INTO THE GAME.
PART #2 (PAGES 3-5) COVER INSTALLING EMI PCB AND MAKING CONNECTIONS TO MOTOR AND POWER DRIVER BOARD.
START WITH: REMOVE THE SAW BRACKET AND DISASSEMBLING THE PARTS. TAKE THE SAW ASSEMBLY OUT OF THE GAME AND PERFORM THE FOLLOWING STEPS:
REMOVE THE 2 SCREWS HOLDING THE TIGER SAW PLASTIC TO THE FRAME.
REMOVE THE SCREW THAT FASTENS THE PLASTIC SAW BLADE TO THE FRAME.
USING CARE, DRILL OUT THE CENTER HOLE OF THE SAW BLADE TO ¼".
COPY THE TEMPLATE BELOW AND CUT IT OUT ALONG THE OUTSIDE
After making a copy, DRILL OUT THE CENTER BOSS OF THE BRACKET TO ¼" DIAMETER. Try fitting the motor hub into the ¼" hole. Ream out the ¼" hole to provide a good fit over the motor hub. Lay template on bracket with outlines matching. Center-punch the crosshairs on either side of the ¼" hole. Drill these out to 1/8". Clean up all burrs and trial fit the motor onto the bracket. Motor has to lay flat with hub in center hole and both screw holes lined up. Use the (2) 4/40 machine screws to secure the motor to the bracket.
INSTALLING THE ORIGINAL PLASTIC SAW BLADE (1.4 VERSION)
With motor bolted to bracket- slide the Allen bolt adapter onto the motor shaft (without blade). Push it on till it contacts the hub. Then back it out enough for the adapter to free-spin. With Allen wrench (provided), turn both set screws until they JUST make contact with the motor shaft. Do a final (firm) tightening on both set screws. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN SET SCREWS.
With saw blade installed up against the Allen head – install another washer and 1’4-20 nut and tightened. Hand-spin the assembly and check for alignment. The smoother it rotates by hand-the less chance for vibration under power. If there is a pronounced wobble then remove blade and realign the Allen bolt adapter by adjusting the tension of both socket head screws. When adjusted correctly the Allen Bolt adapter should spin straight and smooth.
Before installing the reworked saw assembly, there are two clearance points to address. First, the left mounting hole for the bracket (in the backboard) must be rotated (upwards) as shown in the photo below.
This is to allow the bracket to be lifted and rotated slightly allowing the motor to clear the plastic ramp behind the saw assembly. One last point refers to the Tiger Plastic. There is a 1" long nylon spacer and a 1- 1/2" long # 8 Pan Head screw in the hardware package. The use of these two items will enable the Tiger Plastic to clear the saw blade. Depending on what type of saw blade is being used, the 1" spacer can be cut down to allow for correct clearance between rotating saw hub and back of Tiger Saw Plastic.
PART 2: THE ELECTRONICS
The Electronic circuit to run the Animated Saw feature is very basic. The 1.4 Home Game Rom drives the Animated Saw. However, with the Stock Factory 1.0/1.3 Game Rom version it is necessary to provide a Driver/timer circuit (that works independently of the Games normal play) to provide the Animated saw feature.
This Diagram shows what is needed to get a Saw to spin in a game with the 1.4 Rom. It is assumed that the following items have been purchased and installed:
1) 1.4 Home Version Theater of Magic Game Rom.
2) U22 PIC chip
3) EMI Motor PCB
The best location for the EMI PCB is behind the Playfield Back Panel in the corner nearest the Saw Assembly:
The harness on the left connects to the 2 Pin connector going to the Motor. The wire harness on the right goes to the Power Driver Board. The purpose of the Motor EMI Board is to isolate any ‘noise’ made by the motor. The EMI shown here is from a Twilight Zone and is part # A-15542. The board has 2 Inductors and one Diode. The Power (Red Wire) enters Pin 3 of J1 (connector on right) passes thru the Inductor and then to the Motor. Power returns from Motor (Black Wire) across the Diode, through the Inductor- and is eventually Grounded by Transistor Q38 thru the program (Solenoid test #19). The 1.4 Home Game Rom controls the action of the Animated saw including periods of continuous spinning. To keep the speed of the blade at a practical level (600-800 RPM), power to the Motor is regulated to 5 VDC. Lower RPM helps reduce ‘kinetic spin’ after power is removed. J125 (Black wire -Pin 3) was chosen for the connection to the Q38 Transistor because it shares the same pin designations as J126. (J125 is not used on the ToM Power Driver Board). Route the harness down from the backboard along the bottom of the cabinet and up into the back-box. Locate connector J125 (just above J126-bottom row of headers-left of center).The 6 Pin connector from the harness goes onto the right side of (the 9 Pin) J125. The #3 key will assure correct placement. The remaining (Red) Wire slides onto TP 2 (5VDC). To check the circuit put the Game in solenoid test and go to Solenoid # 19.
CONTROLLING FREE SPIN OF SAW BLADES ON THEATER OF MAGIC DIRECT-DRIVE SAW KITS (1.3-1.4).
After power is removed from the motor there is considerable momentum built up and the blade will want to keep spinning. To slow the Blade down, add in a small ‘brake’ in the form of a snap-on-clip (type of clip supplied may vary). This clip will help to decelerate the free-spin after Power has been removed. Push the clip down over the motor shaft as shown.
With clip installed, position the saw blade adapter as shown below. (Slide Adapter up against the clip and tighten both set screws. Mount the saw blade and test spin it by hand to check alignment of the adapter. Installed correctly, the clip will provide a ‘brake’ without affecting the regular spinning of the blade.
CAN'T LOCATE A EMI PCB FOR YOUR 1.4 ToM SAW CONVERSION?- ASK FOR ONE OF OUR EMI (TEMPORARY) ELIMINATORS WHEN YOU ORDER YOUR 1.4 SAW KIT (NO EXTRA CHARGE).