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HI-VOLT.PCB

UPGRADING THE HIGH VOLTAGE CIRCUIT IN BALLY AND STERNS SOLENOID DRIVER BOARDS- USING THE PINLOGIC HI-VOLT.PCB.

INTRODUCTION/ HISTORY

 OF BALLY AND STERNS SOLENOID DRIVER BOARDS

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS ARE IN 4 SECTIONS:

          1) EARLY BALLY SOL DR BDS (AS-2518-16)

        2) LATER BALLY SOL DR BDS (AS-2518-22)

        3) EARLY STERNS SOL DR BDS (B-432)

        4) LATER STERNS SOL DR BDS (SDU-100)

ALSO- INSTRUCTIONS FOR INSTALLING:

5 VOLT REGULATOR (Q20) AND FILTER CAPACITOR (C23).

&

TRANSISTORS AND SOCKETS

INTRODUCTION/ HISTORY

BALLY/STERNS SOLENOID DRIVER BOARD –REPAIR IT/ UPGRADE IT- OR REPLACE IT?

        With replacement Solenoid Driver boards now available for prices between $100 and $170.00 why even mess with the 30 year old Bally or Sterns version? The reason could be a matter of $$$$$$$. Why not spend a few $$ to restore one of thousands of readily available- original boards. We’re referring to Bally/ Sterns Solenoid Driver Boards. These are the 30 year old boards that are readily available and easiest to repair. Both of the recent replacement boards are using an engraving process (in place of the standard etched design). This could create some real repair problems. The engaved pads and traces are surrounded by a massive copper ground plane.

The two (black) lines are engraved cuts that define the trace in between. The  photo also shows a wire lead soldered to a pad. The rest of the (green) surface is a ground plane. The close proximity of the trace and solder pad to the ground plane is obvious.

Photo shows 30 year old standard etched pads & traces on this Bally Board.

Traces and pads are clearly defined with a vertical ground trace on the top right side. This is the reverse side of a Bally Solenoid Driver Board.

PIN LOGIC HI-VOLT.PCB

Some background information is called for here as to the design and history of the Bally/Sterns High Voltage circuit now 30 years old. In 1977 the  circuit shown below would confound a lot of techs.

          The demands of this Hi Voltage regulator in 1977 were to supply a steady 190VDC to as many as seven hungry 6 & 7 digit Score displays. The displays were sometimes blanked out and other times had to show all segments on all displays being driven hard (in test mode). The regulator was required to keep up with this changing demand without dimming or cutting out. When it was at its best- it performed perfectly, when it got out of whack it became a colossal nightmare. Move ahead a few years……….

          At first, when a system failed it could still look ok except for one or two over-heated resistors. No problem… change those resistors and turn it back on. WHAT THE **** the whole section lit up and now more parts were blackened. Next step was to buy a “Repair Kit” that contained most of the fried parts with a few extra ones. Just change the burnt parts, (why bother with all that added work)!

           The later Bally Solenoid board was manufactured with copper on just one side (many $$ saved there) so now the repeated heating/ soldering has loosened traces and pads. After another “Repair Kit” arrives it is decided to change ALL the parts in the kit and be done with it. Oooops there are a couple of parts missing with an explanation provided that those parts ‘seldom’ fail (not needed). Another delicate installation and with fingers crossed the power is applied. GREAT, it appears all is OK (it’s not smoking)!

          Put the fuse back in and TURN IT ON! Oh cripes, no high voltage, no displays (but still no smoke). What now? Maybe Ohming out all the parts will find the problem. Yah… right!!

          There is a chance that one or two of the 18+ parts were cold soldered or installed wrong. It’s been a long couple of hours and still no results. What was Bally thinking when they concocted this mess! Only solution that makes any sense is to buy another Kit., (but try to avoid the embarrassment of explaining what happened to the first 2 kits). Find a different vendor with a better kit. This vendor explains that his kit is the only one on the market that actually has ALL the parts needed and most of those parts are flame retardent.

          There is no need to continue discussing this repetitive routine because it is still going on today with hundreds of Bally/ Sterns Solenoid Driver Boards. A new ‘solution’ had recently arrived with the introduction of LED Displays. Now the High Voltage system can be by-passed/ ignored/ abandoned and the problem solved by merely spending a lot more $$$$$.

          Instead- How about designing an IC that contains all of the circuitry needed to regulate 230 VDC down to 170-180 VDC and put it all in a TO-220 package?

          This Voltage Regulator IC, used in a simple circuit, can produce a steady 170-180 VDC that can easily feed up to 7 Bally displays under any load. Now on to the actual installation….

          The boards being converted here are typical Bally/Sterns Solenoid Driver Boards. The Bally boards shown are both early and later models (with and without fuses). Sterns boards are also early and later models (with and without fuses).

           The entire High Voltage Section will be cleaned off leaving only a couple of Test loops. (If Solenoid Driver board being reworked has no fuse, remove TP2 loop and clean the pad for further use). With all parts removed there are 4 pickup points needed for wiring to connect with a Pinlogic.PCB.

           Before soldering in any wires – a quick look at how all those parts were removed. The simplest of Radio Shack tools were used to show that the removal/ desoldering can be easily accomplished with just basic skills.

          A 30 Watt soldering pencil and a roll of desoldering braid were the only tools used. The fact that Bally chose to use a PCB with copper on just one side (AS-2518-22) produces some unique problems when it comes to soldering and desoldering.

           Great care is needed when removing parts after desoldering. ALL the solder must be cleaned off before part can be moved. Copper plating only on one side makes desoldering easier but part removal much harder. Take the time to work all parts loose before trying to pull them out.

           When the component clean off is completed, the holes will need additional desoldering/ cleaning and some drilling after parts are gone, to allow for wires to be inserted.

In addition to the soldering/desoldering tools a small tool drill (with a 1/16 drill bit) was used. Local hobby shop had one of these for $7.00.

Use the accompanying chart to keep track of parts removed.

SECTION (1)

EARLY BALLY SOL DR BDS (AS-2518-16)

EARLY BALLY SOL DR (BOARDS WITH NO FUSE).

This early Bally design had copper plating on both sides.

ABOVE PHOTO SHOWS AREA WHERE PARTS WILL BE   REMOVED.

4 WIRE CONNECTIONS ON EARLY BALLY SOL DR BD

RED WIRE (230VDC) GOES TO PLUS SIDE OF C26

BLACK WIRE (230VDC GND RETURN) RIGHT SIDE OF R35

GRAY WIRE (187VDC OUTPUT) TP2 PAD (LOOP REMOVED)

WHITE WIRE (LOGIC GND) BOTTOM PAD OF R56

EARLY BALLY WIRING FROM SOL DR BD TO CONNECTOR

EARLY BALLY SOL DR BD WITH HI-VOLT.PCB

NOTE: HEAT SINK IS HOT AND ALIVE WITH 177VDC

SECTION (2)

LATER BALLY SOL DR BDS (AS-2518-22)

SOLENOID DRIVER BOARD WITH FUSE

Back of later Bally Sol Dr Bd (w/fuse). Parts shown will be removed.

A 1/16” drill bit is used to open up the holes (starting from the copper side of the board).

After drilling holes from the bottom side, use an awl or ice pick (from the top side) to open up the holes to allow for an easier wire insertion.

The 4 wires come attached to a Molex connector which mates up to the Pinlogic.PCB. Solder the 4 wires into panel before mounting the PCB.

The 4 wires inserted into the holes indicated.

This photo shows where the 4 wires will be inserted and then soldered. NOTE: High Voltage output (Gray wire) is inserted into the top most  hole that remains, after the Fuse Holder was removed. This hole won’t require any drilling.

4 wires Soldered on new style (with fuse) Bally Sol Dr Bd.

LATE BALLY SOL DR BD CONNECTOR/ WIRE DESIGNATIONS

 CONNECTOR FROM HI-VOLT.PCB TO LATE BALLY SOL DR BD

LOCATING THE ADHESIVE STANDOFFS

Pencil mark a vertical line 1 ½” from left edge of the board & pencil mark a horizontal line ½” down from the top edge-forming a right angle pocket. Remove backing and press one of the adhesive standoffs into that corner. Place the Hi- Volt.PCB onto the board with one additional standoff inserted into the lower left corner. Press this standoff onto the board, remove the High-Volt.PCB and install the final 2 adhesive standoffs into the Hi-Volt.PCB. Press down to set all 4.

LATER MODEL BALLY (AS-2518-22-WITH FUSE) SOLENOID DRIVER BOARD.                                      WITH HI-VOLT.PCB INSTALLED

NOTE: HEAT SINK IS HOT AND ALIVE WITH 177VDC

SECTION 3

EARLY STERNS SOL DR BDS (B-432)

Sterns had two renditions of their Solenoid Driver Boards.

The B-432 is shown here- note that only this early version used a fuse.

BACK OF EARLY STERNS SOLENOID DRIVER BOARD WITH  4 WIRES SOLDERED TO PADS.

4 wires connected to panel

RED WIRE (230VDC) GOES TO + SIDE OF C26

BLACK WIRE (GND RETURN) GOES TO TOP OF R35

WHITE WIRE (LOGIC GND) GOES TO TP8- BELOW CAP

GRAY WIRE (187VDC OUTPUT) GOES TO TOP FUSE CLIP HOLE

EARLY STERNS SOLENOID DRIVER BOARD WITH PINLOGIC HI-VOLT.PCB

NOTE: HEAT SINK IS HOT AND ALIVE WITH 177VDC

SECTION 4

LATER STERNS SOL DR BDS (SDU-100)

Connections:

RED- (230VDC) PLUS SIDE OF C26

BLACK- (GND RETURN) TOP OF R35

GREY (187VDC OUTPUT) TP2

WHITE (LOGIC GND) TP8

Back of Sterns panel showing 4 wire connections.

CONNECTOR FROM PIN-LOGIC.PCB TO STERNS SOL DR BD.

LATE MODEL STERNS SOLENOID DRIVER BOARD WITH HI-VOLT.PCB INSTALLED.

NOTE: STERNS HAD NO FUSE ON THEIR LATE MODEL BOARD.

NOTE: HEAT SINK IS HOT AND ALIVE WITH 177VDC

Trouble shooting the Pinlogic.PCB

NOTE: HEAT SINK IS HOT AND ALIVE WITH 177VDC

If both Leds are blank- go to the power supply panel and check TP2 (230VDC) and F2. If the 230 VDC Input LED is lit but not the output LED then check ½ Amp fuse on Hi-Volt.PCB.

With the ground lead tucked under the braided wire (stapled inside the backbox) use the probe in top of 6 pin connector when testing voltage levels.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR

5 VOLT REGULATOR (Q20) AND FILTER CAPACITOR (C23).

INSTALLING THE LM-323K REGULATOR

TRANSISTORS

AND THEIR SOCKETS

SOLDER IN THE MOLEX SOCKET IN THE SAME MANNER AS THE TIP102 WAS SOLDERED. MECHANICALLY THERE IS A LITTLE MOVEMENT USING A SOCKET SO HOLD ON TO THE SOCKET WHEN REMOVING OR INSERTING A TRANSISTOR. ALSO, CUT OFF THE TIPS OF THE TRANSISTOR LEADS AS THEY EXIT THE SOCKET TO LET THE SOCKET FIT DOWN FLUSH ONTO THE SURFACE OF THE BOARD WHILE SOLDERING.  (Not designed for early model Sterns Solenoid Driver Boards).