This model requires customer to remove 14 wires from the back of the Bally Power Supply Module and resolder them to the "E" points on the back of the Direct Connect. PCB

Comes complete with: 4 nylon stand-offs, 2 cable ties, 3 connectors for J1, J2, J3 and 40 Trifurcon terminals (plus 10 more to practice with).

Even up the wire lengths of each bundle and cut the bundle down to the shortest wire. Clean off 3/16" of bare wire on all 14 wires. Crimp .093 Male terminals onto all 14 Wires using a Crimping tool such as this Waldom Tool # W-HT-1919.

With .093 terminals crimped onto all 14 wires, they can be inserted into their proper Connectors. NO SOLDERING REQUIRED USING THE "E" BOARD.

Locate the (2) 4 pin inline connectors.

Arrows indicates front of each connector

PLACE THE DIRECT CONNECT PCB ONTO THE STAND-OFFS, PUSHING IT ALL THE WAY ONTO THE 4 NYLON POSTS .

Starting with the 2 Blue and 2 Black wires in the left side bundle, insert them into the back of the bottom connector. Insert either one of the 2 Blue wires in 5 & 6, either one of the 2 Black wires in 7 & 8. Insert this Male Plug into the bottom Female Receptacle of the E-BOARD.

Next- Insert the 4 wires into the back of the top connector according to the diagram. Pin 1 is Green, Pin 2 is Wht/Blk, Pin 3 is Orange, Pin 4 is White. When you’re sure they’re correct, insert that Male Plug into the top Female Receptacle.

NOTE: KISS, SPACE INVADERS, FUTURE SPA will have double wires at Pins 1 (Green) & 3 (Orange). Put 2 wires into each terminal on those 3 games.

Using the XFORMER TO "E" POINTS DIAGRAM locate the 6 Pin Female Receptacle on the right side of the E-Panel. Locate the matching 6 pin Male plug- (observing the ONLY way plug and receptacle fit together). Starting with the 2 wires emanating from the BOTTOM ROW of Transformer lugs, find the Red and Yellow wires (Lugs 1 & 3 and 9& 11). Insert those 2 wires into the back of the 6 Pin Male connector. Red Wire in #2 Position (center left) and Yellow wire in #5 position (center right). Now insert the remaining 4 wires into the back of the 6 pin Male housing according to the Diagram. Pin 3 (upper left) is Wht/Green, Pin 6 (upper right) is Wht/Red, Pin 1 (lower left) is Green, Pin 4 (lower right) is Red.

Wire Color/Connector Position and Lug Numbers are provided to assure correct location of all 14 Wires. Check your work as you progress and get a removal tool from Jameco.com (Part #131887CM) to allow for corrections (if needed).

Finished wiring on top and bottom four pin connectors should resemble photo on the left. Top connector has 16 gauge green wire (at # 1), 18 gauge blk/wht wire (at # 2), 16 gauge orange wire (at # 3), 18 gauge white wire (at # 4). Kiss, Space Invaders, Future Spa have double wires at Pin 1 (Green) & Pin 3 (Orange). Put 2 wires into each terminal on those 3 games.

Bottom connector has two 16 gauge blue wires at # 5 & 6, two 16 gauge black wires at # 7 & 8.

NOTE: Sterns games have only 1 Blue and 1 Black wire. (Use # 5 & # 8 connections for those 2 wires).

Finished wiring on 6 position connector should resemble photo on the left. Top left is 18 gauge wht/green wire, top right is 18 gauge wht/red wire, center left is 16 gauge red wire, center right is 16 gauge yellow wire (these two 16 gauge wires in the center of the plug go to the bottom row of transformer lugs and are the 120 VAC inputs ). Bottom left is the 18 gauge green wire, bottom right is the 18 gauge red wire.

This completes the wiring from the transformer to the E-board and that procedure is the same for both the Direct Connect. PCB and the Dual Plug. PCB. The rest of the wiring involves the .156 terminals going to J1, J2, and J3. The Waldom HT-1919 can handle the crimping of the both the .093 and .156 Trifurcon terminals with a little practice. There are extra (.093 & .156) terminals supplied with each Power Supply for this purpose. The Sterns games can use either the Direct Connect or the Dual Plug model with minor changes. There are 2 less wires coming from the Transformer on the Sterns Power supply. Where Bally has doubled up on the Blue and Black wires from E7 & E8 (controlled lamps 7.3 VAC) –Sterns uses only 1 Blue and 1 Black Wire. Also a 1" wood spacer block is needed under the Sterns metal frame to allow for the longer Direct Connect or Dual Plug PCB.

This photo shows a Dual Plug PCB (powering one of our test fixtures). It has been fitted with an "E" board and has the wiring needed to test MPU, Lamps, Score Displays, Solenoid Driver Board. The Dual Plug format allows the game owner the advantage of starting with the Bally flat pin connectors and then moving up to the Molex system 1 wire at a time or all 33 wires at once. When the Molex conversion is completed the immediate result is a noticeable improvement in bulb brightness and solenoid power which can be attributed to both enhanced power supply hardware and the much improved (Molex) delivery system. There are imitators making some cheap copies of the Bally Power Supply Module but only the Repair Connection is custom making 3 choices for customers to choose from.

This inexpensive ($14.00-$20.00) crimping tool claims to handle 3 different sizes of Molex terminals. Those sizes include .062/ .093/ .156. Some suppliers include the mention of .100 terminals too. Other suppliers refer to this simply as a ".093 Crimper".

I have tried the tool on 3 terminal sizes (.062/ .093/ .156- both male and female). It does produce a decent crimp but it is tricky to use. First off are the covers on both handles. When pressure is applied to both handles the covers slide right off. A simple cure was to cut a slot in the plastic cover and GRIND a NOTCH into each handle. Then a couple of cable ties will finish the job.

Here are 2 devices that were designed to hold the .093 & .156 terminals in place:

The platform is a 3 X 6 piece of ¾ pine pushed up against the transformer and held down with a drywall screw. Both columns are 2" long pieces of 1-1/4" oak dowel stock. The left column has a 3/32" hole drilled into the face- 5/16" down from the top. The ½" long 10-32 socket head screw is directly over the 3/32" hole and is tapped down into the column just below the 3/32" hole. Both columns are held by screws coming up through the platform and provide a solid mini-vise for securing the .093 & .156 terminals. Both columns are angled out a little to provide room for using the Waldom crimping tool.

The .093 terminal is inserted into the hole in the front of the column (with the terminals locking ears touching the surface). The socket head screw should make contact with the round barrel section of the terminal. The exact distance needed was accomplished by filing down the face and trial fitting the terminal. When the distance is set the Socket head screw is threaded down until contact is made and the terminal is firmly locked in place (with the tabs facing up). The wire is bared 3/16" and placed on top of the terminal with the bare section between the conductor tabs. Now crimp the insulation tabs with the "A" anvil, locking the terminal onto the insulated section of the wire.

Using a pair of needle nose pliers- compress the crimp (to make it hold better). Now use the "B" anvil to crimp the conductor tabs over the bare wire. If the terminal tries to move, apply a little more pressure with the Socket screw. A few trial and error runs will result in good strong terminal/ wire connections.

Finished crimping of a .093 terminal.

Column/clamp for holding/crimping .156 terminals.

Bolted to the top of the column is a scrap section of a .156 connector. The right side port is used as a holder for the terminal to be crimped. The Trifurcon terminal is a snug fit when slid into this opening and should be inserted just far enough so that the locking tab (on the bottom side) just touches the housing. Lay the bared wire onto the terminal and crimp the insulation tabs over the wire using the "A" anvil. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to compress and shape the tabs.

Now crimp the conductor tabs over the bare wire using the "B" anvil. The result should be something like this:

These 2 Devices are inexpensive to construct and make working with the Waldom-HT-1919 a lot easier.